If you spot an unagi specialist restaurant in Tokyo, head in for a hearty helping of hitsumabushi, a more elaborate version of unadon - the centrepiece is a grilled eel fillet over warm rice that's meant to be portioned into four servings. Consume the first serving plain to savour the comfort-food simplicity of eel & rice; then mix the second serving with spring onions & wasabi for extra uplift. The third serving is poured over with a clear soup, ochazuke-style. The fourth serving? Eat it the way you like best.
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